Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Mark “Mantic59″ Herro.
So you’re new to wet shaving. Maybe you’re at that time in your life where you’re just beginning to shave. Or perhaps you’re making a transition from electric razors to manual. Or you’ve decided to shave like your grandpa. In any case, there are some common mistakes new wet shavers make that I see all the time. I cover 7 of those mistakes below, as well as their solutions. Let’s jump in!
Mistake #1: Poor Prep
One mistake many men make (particularly those switching from electric to manual) is preparation. They think that splashing some [amazon asin=B002A8JO48&template=*lrc ad (right)]water on their face for a few seconds is enough to get lathered. The truth is that it can take up to three minutes to properly clean and hydrate the skin for shaving.
Gently wash with warm (not hot) water and a soap specifically made for the face — body or deodorant bars will strip away too much of the skin’s natural oils, drying the skin and making shaving more difficult. If you’re young and struggling with acne, you may want to avoid using a washcloth (vigorous scrubbing can irritate the skin and make acne worse). Don’t neglect preparing the neck too!
Mistake #2: Lousy Lather
That pressurized can of shaving foam from the discount store might seem the way to go for someone learning how to wet shave, but it may be the worst decision you could make. Sure, it’s cheap and convenient, and some people can use them without any problems, but there are some trade-offs. The can’s propellant will tend to dry out the skin, so the manufacturers have to add artificial lubricants to [amazon asin=B004L4EING&template=*lrc ad (right)]try to make up for it. Then even more ingredients that have nothing to do with shaving are added, like stabilizers and preservatives. Remember, your skin is the largest organ of the body, so every additional unneeded ingredient is one more chance for some kind of allergic reaction.
So at least look for a decent shave product out of a squeeze tube. Better yet, try a lathering shave soap or cream that is applied with a shaving brush. You may pay a few pennies more for it, but your skin with thank you.
Mistake #3: Ignoring Grain
Hair doesn’t just grow “out” from the body, it grows in a particular direction — which is called the grain. To determine the grain, let the hair grow for a day or so then gently rub the area from different directions. Some directions will feel rougher and some smoother. The smoothest direction is the hair’s grain for that area of your face. You may find the grain changing direction on different areas of the [amazon asin=B00837YY18&template=*lrc ad (right)]skin, so it is useful to make a map of the area (at least mentally) and note the patterns.
Why is this important? Think of shaving not so much as eliminating hair but rather reducing hair (hey, it’s going to grow back!). You want to make the “bulk” reduction known as shaving as comfortable as possible, avoiding irritation and nicks. The best way to do that is by initially shaving with the grain. If you want a closer shave, re-lather and shave across the grain (at a direction 90 degrees away from the grain). Closer still? Re-lather and shave across the grain from the opposite direction. Some people can shave against the grain, but it should only be attempted after at least a pass with the grain, and I recommend a cross-grain pass before as well.
By the way, if you are using a single-blade razor (an “old school” double-edge, single-edge, or straight razor), you may be able to cheat a little and not follow every twist and turn but instead shave in the predominant direction your hair grows. But if you are using a multi-blade cartridge razor, you need to be following the grain more closely.[amazon asin=B00DWG7Z0C&template=*lrc ad (right)]
Mistake #4: Too Much Pressure
Probably the most common — and most serious — problem for a new wet shaver is using too much pressure on the razor. It must be something innate in the male species to press down when shaving the skin, perhaps thinking you must be getting more of the stubble. The opposite, however, is more accurate. Razor blades are at their most efficient when cutting across a flat surface. Pressing down creates a “ditch” that can cause irritation and an inconsistent shave.
Modern razors can at least partially compensate for too much pressure with things like pretensioners (those “fins” at the bottom of the razor cartridge), pivot schemes, and cartridge designs (multiple blades and “skin guards” that create a flatter surface). But you can avoid all that by simply using a light touch on the razor.
Tilt your head to one side and rest the razor on your cheek. Feel that? That’s the most pressure you should use on the razor.
