The Definitive Guide to Traditional Food Preparation and Preservation
by
Mark Sisson
Marks Daily Apple
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Before huge
multinational corporations did it for us, humans had to figure out
how to turn raw, unrefined formerly-living things into food that
could be cooked or eaten. And before standup freezers, refrigerators,
ice boxes, canned
soup, bagged bread, tinned fish, and grocery stores hit the
scene, we had to figure out how to preserve foods. Yes, we humans
were a wily, resourceful bunch still are, if you give us half
a chance who came up with an impressive number of food
preparation and preservation techniques over the ages. Some
techniques were designed solely to preserve the food. Some improved
the taste. Others increased the density of the nutrients,
as well as our ability to access them. Still others were simply
concerned with removing natural toxins and making the food safe
to eat. And some techniques accomplish some or all of these things
at once. Whatever the technique, however, from basic mechanical
pounding to month-long fermentation, these methods all sought to
accomplish one simple thing: increase the availability of safe,
nutritious, digestible caloric energy.
Let's take
a look at some of them and explore what, why, and how they work:
Soaking
What
and When Soaking, also known as steeping, is a basic
elementary step in traditional food preparation, especially that
of cereal grains,
legumes,
and anything bound for fermentation. As long as people have been
relying on grains and legumes as a large source of calories, they
have been soaking them. Because, well, you'll see when you get to
the "Why."
How
Cover seeds with water, let sit in a warm place for at least twelve
hours, drain, then rinse.
Why
Soaking does a few things. It prepares the seed
for cooking by partially saturating it with water (particularly
in the case of legumes). This makes cooking quicker and the finished
product tastier. It also significantly reduces the phytic acid content
while improving the digestibility of the food. By reducing phytic
acid, you absorb more of the minerals that come with the food, instead
of losing them. By improving the digestibility, you are able to
extract more calories from the beans than you'd otherwise extract.
Thus, the food is more nutritious and more calorific extremely
important for people who get the bulk of their nutrition from seeds.
Sprouting
What
and When After soaking
a seed, grain, nut, or legume, a couple things can happen. It can
be cooked immediately. It can be dried and then pounded (see below)
into a flour or meal. It can also be prevented from fully drying,
usually by constantly remoistening it, and allowed to sprout. These
are seeds, after all, and their ultimate goal is to become a full-grown
plant. Obviously, seeds have been sprouting for millions of years,
but there's not much data about exactly when people began sprouting
seeds for their health benefits. I imagine soaking and fermenting
produced a lot of sprouted seeds that were then incorporated into
the food, if only by accident. I don't imagine they were eating
amaranth sprout salads or anything. Thus, sprouting seeds may be
a traditional method of preparation mostly by accident.
How
Soak the raw seed, grain, nut, or legume for around 12 hours (depending
on the variety, the time required changes). It must be raw, not
roasted, or else the enzymes will be deactivated. After soaking,
drain them completely in a colander. Every eight hours, rinse them
with water and allow them to drain. Give them enough room and some
air exposure. After a couple rinsings, they should begin to sprout.
Why
Sprouting deactivates enzyme inhibitors, thus making the sprouted
seed more
digestible. There's also some evidence that it activates phytase,
the phytic acid-degrading enzyme, but it doesn't
look like the increased phytase actually reduces phytic acid
all the time.
Fermenting
What
and When Fermentation is the chemical transformation
of complex organic substances into simpler compounds by enzymes
produced by bacteria, molds, and yeasts. It's a kind of "pre-digestion,"
performed by microorganisms long before humans were around to witness
it (let alone control it). The earliest confirmed instances of human-mediated
fermentation involve alcohol, including the 7,000
year old winery from Armenia. Although no liquid wine was recovered,
the residues confirm that humans have been consciously fermenting
foods and altering our consciousness for a very long time. Evidence
for production of fermented dairy in Babylon from over 5,000 years
ago exists, and the first bread, a leavened long-fermented sourdough,
was baked in Egypt roughly 3,500
years ago. I'm not sure if every culture has a tradition of
fermented
foods, but the list of cultures that do not would be exceedingly
small.
How
It depends on what you're trying to ferment and you can ferment
just about anything, so the methods are incredibly diverse. Some
foods, like raw dairy,
will ferment all on their own because they contain an abundance
of living lactobacilli, while others, like pasteurized dairy, require
the addition of a starter agent because all the lactobacilli have
been killed. The pasteurized dairy will still pick up bacteria
and "change" without human interference, but it won't be a desirable
change without lactobacilli present to hold off the unwanted bacteria.
Still others, like cabbage,
come with enough lactobacilli bacteria to start fermentation, but
you have to squeeze the natural juices out to kickstart the process
and then add enough salt to limit the growth of putrefactive bacteria.
But in the end, fermentation always comes down to enzymatic actions
taken by molds, yeasts, and/or bacteria upon foods.
Why
The fermentation products acetic acid, lactic acid, and alcohol
act as natural preservatives for food and its nutrients while
creating exciting, complex flavors. In a world without refrigeration,
this was essential if you wanted to store enough food for leaner
times without it spoiling or bleeding vitamins. Also, because the
food is "pre-digested" by microorganisms, it's easier to digest
and you get more energy out of it. Fermentation can also create
new nutrients, especially B-vitamins, and fermented food can populate
our guts with helpful bacteria (or pass along helpful genetic data
to existing bacteria). Obviously, traditional cultures didn't know
all these things, but they knew fermented food lasted longer, tasted
better, and made them feel better.
Nixtamalization
What
and When In Mesoamerica
around 1500 BC, the folks living there discovered that soaking
maize (or corn) in water mixed with lime (the calcium hydroxide,
not the fruit) or ashes from burnt trees (potassium hydroxide),
the grain became more delicious, more digestible, and easier to
work with.
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April 12, 2012
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